Additional Photography by Jessica Bissa

City Highlights

• Location: Madrid, Comunidad de Madrid, España

• Population (metro): 6.79 million

• Known for: Capital and largest city in Spain, second largest city in the European Union, home of many cultural institutions, the largest Palace in Europe

• Weather during visit: Sunny, 1-16ºC (34-61ºF)

• Time in Place: 49 hours 53 minutes

Spain is a vibrant country filled with spectacular sights, delicious food, and a cacophony of cultures leading to one of the most interesting and diverse countries in Europe, and there is perhaps no better way to experience a sample of what this country has to offer than by visiting Madrid. As the seat of government and economy, plus its centralized location, Madrid is at the heart of it all. Visitors can stop by one of the many markets to try some of Spaint’s famous paella or pastries, Catcha. Thrilling football match from Real Madrid at Estadio Santiago Bernabéu, or relax with a stroll through the gardens of Retiro Park. No matter what you prefer, Madrid has something for everyone to enjoy.

My travel partner and I visited the city for a couple of jam-packed days in February 2024, and our exploring was nearly non-stop the entire time. Madrid is a very large city, and we only saw a small portion of what it has to offer, but what we did see left us stunned and waiting to see even more from this beautiful metropolis. In total, we walked nearly 30 km (19 mi) in 48 hours, took hundreds of photos, and made at least five different trips to bakeries. Although we boarded the flight home exhausted, there was just so much for us to do, and see that we wanted to soak up as much as we could in our short visit.

Llegando a España

Madrid is located in the center of the Iberian Peninsula, making it an ideal entry point to Europe via air from the South and West. Airlines make good use of this at Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas Airport, the busiest airport in Spain and the fifth-busiest in Europe. The airport hosts the primary operating bases for Iberia - the flag carrier of Spain - and Air Europa, in addition to significant operations from low cost carriers Ryanair and EasyJet. There is service to dozens of domestic and Schengen destinations and a major international presence with flights to every continent but Australia. As Iberia is the largest airline at Madrid-Barajas, Oneworld Alliance has a leading position at the airport and hosts many lounges within the facility. Options to Barajas for North American travelers include Aeroméxico, Air Canada, Air Europa, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Iberia, and United Airlines.

There are plenty of ways to get to Madrid if you are already in Europe. A perennial favorite of European travelers is the Spanish high-speed rail network operated by state-owned Renfe. One interesting fact about the Spanish network is that the lines operating in the Iberian Peninsula primarily run at a specific Iberian broad gauge, 1668mm, compared to the international standard gauge of 1435mm. The newer, high-speed AVE network is built at standard gauge to allow connections to the rest of Europe via France. Renfe operates international services terminating at Marseilles-Saint-Charles in France, connecting to the TGV network and broader European rail system. Intercity buses also run in all directions to cities like Lisbon and Andorra.

Arriving from the United States after a red-eye flight, my travel partner and I were quite pleased to finally touchdown in Spain. One experience that most travelers don’t get in the United States is the experience of a hard stand, a parking spot where passengers deplane via stairs and board a bus to the terminal. While not as convenient as a jet bridge, this method does allow for some interesting photos of the aircraft from the outside. A short five-minute bus ride later and we were inside the main terminal. Clearing customs did not take long thanks to the large number of customs agents available, and we were officially in Spain.

As we were arriving from outside the Schengen Zone, we were parked and cleared customs at Terminal 4S, a satellite terminal and the newest at Barajas. The terminal is connected to the rest of the airport via an underground automated people mover. All-in-all it took around 30 minutes to deplane, clear customs, and get to the main airport facilities. It was all worth it, however, thanks to the stunning sight that greeted us.

Madrid is renowned as one of the best airports in Europe, and I can see why. The passenger facilities are top-notch, with abundant restrooms (usually a rarity in Europe), shops, and restaurants. The architecture is stunning, with large canopies supported by orange beams creating an airy, open-feeling space. At times the airport seemed confusing due to the large scale of the building, but there is always a steady stream of people to follow and the wayfinding available is top notch with both clear iconography and multiple languages to guide passengers from around the world. After winding our way through the labyrinthine corridors, my travel partner and I finally made it through the final security checkpoint (and duty free shops) to reach the main arrivals hall for the terminal. Here, we finally found the station for the Madrid Metro.

Tránsito Rápido

Madrid is home to one of the most expansive transit systems in the world, and one of my personal favorites after using it. There are 12 main lines, with additional light metros, express running commuter trains, and a vast network of buses to get the nearly seven million Madrileños and visitors to their destinations. One of the most interesting facts about the system is that it runs on the left, while traffic in Spain drives on the right. This is due to Spain changing to drive on the right after the system had already opened, falling in line with nearly every other country in the EU. The system has over 300 stations, 293 kilometers (182 miles) of track, and major expansion plans in the coming decades.

Outside of the fare gates for the metro were several ticket machines where travelers could purchase or refill their transit cards. Madrid has a unified payment scheme called Tarjeta Transporte Público (literally Public Transport Card), a refillable contactless card that can be used on the Metro, busses, and Cercanías commuter trains. Unlike many other major systems such as London’s Oyster Card or New York’s OMNY which operate based on a stored value, Madrid’s system operates on stored tickets and passes, meaning transit users must figure out what type of ticket they need before they can board the train. Even though Madrid has fare zones, this works for most users as the vast majority of the Metro system is within zone A, meaning a single zone ticket gets people where they need to go without additional math. Fares are also relatively inexpensive, with the ability to get from anywhere on the Metro network to Barajas for around $5 USD. My travel partner and I got a three-day Tourist Ticket pass that allowed for unlimited use of the system in Zone A and to the airport. In total this cost us €22.50 including the price of the card. There were also options for traveling into the surrounding areas for €34 for the same 3 days. We found this to be a fairly reasonable price compared to some other pass options in European cities like London.

After acquiring our passes we tapped into the station. The airport station is relatively large and features multiple platforms able to accept Line 8 metro trains, Cercanías commuter trains, and AVE high-speed trains. A Line 8 train arrived at the station just as we were tapping in, and we rushed down the escalators to make it on just in time. Line 8 is relatively short, featuring only 8 stations, but offers one of the best airport rail connections I have been on. The CAF Series 8000 trains used on the line are spacious and feature help dot-matrix signs announcing stations. We rode the line nearly its entire length to reach Columbia station where we transferred to Line 9. Continuing south, we rode six more stops until we got to Ibiza station, disembarking and leaving the station to find ourselves truly in Spain.

Madrid al Sol

When we left the US, it was late a night and completely dark outside. Flying across the Atlantic in the inky blackness, we awoke on the plane to find ourselves descending into a bright dawn. And, now that we were here and emerging from the underground Metro station, we could confirm that it was a beautiful day to enjoy. Talking with a local later, we found that we had chosen a great time to visit Madrid as even though it was the middle of February, the city was experiencing unseasonably warm and sunny weather, leading to a great couple of days for us to be out and about exploring. Wanting to make the most of the weather, our first stop was Retiro Park, one of the most magnificent parks in the city.

Parque del Buen Ritro is located just East of the historic center of Madrid and was once owned by the Spanish monarchy as their private garden. Becoming public in 1868, the park is home to dozens of monuments and promenades for people to enjoy. We entered the park through a beautiful wrought-iron gate along its Eastern side. It was quite obviously still winter for the park, as most of the deciduous trees were barren, though it was still green in some spots thanks to the sunny days, resilient grass, and evergreen trees dotted along the property. Almost immediately we stumbled into a monument dedicated to Arsenio Martínez-Campos, a Spanish military officer who briefly held the position of Prime Minister of Spain. From this point, we continued down a tree-lined avenue to reach one of the park’s most significant monuments, dedicated to King Alfonso XII.

The monument to Alfonso XII is located in the North-central portion of the park, along an artificial lake lined on all sides by promenades. The monument features a statue of the king nicknamed “The Peacemaker” in the center atop horseback and surrounded by four stone lions. Steps from the monument lead down towards the lake and offer visitors the opportunity to overlook the water and passersby. The lake itself is a popular tourist destination, with boats available for rent and cafes and buskers lining its edges.

While wandering through the park and enjoying the sunshine, we noticed that many Madrileños were out enjoying the green space too. We also noticed many dogs, and it seemed like Madrid is home to a rather sizable population of pooches. Passing by various monuments, fountains, lawns, avenues, and museums, we were relishing in getting to stretch our legs after the long transatlantic flight. One stop along the way we quite enjoyed was the Crystal Palace, a large event space originally constructed for the 1887 Philippines Exposition housing rotating art exhibits. In front of the building was a large lake with a fountain, and even a trail with an artificial waterfall roaring past it.

By this point in the day, we had gotten quite hungry and decided to stop at one of the various cafes dotting the park. While a significant portion of Marileños speak English, and a lot of signs are written in it, there are still times when it is helpful to know at least un pequeño Español. This was one of those times, as the server for the cafe only spoke Spanish. Eventually, we managed to order our food and enjoy ourselves. My travel partner had a cheese and Iberico ham flatbread while I ordered a grilled chicken sandwich. Both were fine, probably heightened by the fact the only thing we had to eat all day was a cup of yogurt on the plane, but it satisfied our hunger and was reasonably affordable.

Finishing our meal we walked along El Paseo de la República de Cuba back towards the central lake, and then west to La Puerta de Alacalá. This gate marks the start of the historic center of Madrid, as the gate was constructed in 1778 to allow a larger road to enter the city walls. Although most of the wall no longer stands, La Puerta remains, standing in the middle of La Plaza de la Independencia. La Puerta, along with several others in Madrid, have come to become recognizable symbols of the city, and this one in particular hosted events such as the MTV Europe Music Awards and WorldPride closing ceremonies.

Continuing west along Calle de Alacalá we passed Madrid City Hall - which was hosting a Monet exhibition - Place de Cibeles, and the Bank of Spain. The plaza was quite impressive, with large Spanish flags flying everywhere and a large fountain of the Phrygian goddess Cybele in the center. This area also marks the beginning of one of the largest shopping districts in Madrid, with international brands like Rolex and Hermes, though a significant number of these larger international brands are further west yet along Gran Vía. Also along Calle de Alacalá are several institutions like the San Fernando Royal Academy of Fine Arts, which was hosting an exhibit on Goya while we were in town. Finally, at the terminus of Calle de Alacalá is perhaps our most anticipated destination for the trip, Puerta del Sol.

Puerta del Sol is one of the best known locations within Madrid. Not only is the plaza the center of Madrid, but also the country, with all roads in the Spanish system beginning from a plaque marking kilometer zero. Along the Eastern side of the plaza is a statue of the Bear and the Madroño Tree, part of the coat of arms of the city. This statue is a popular meeting point for locals and tourists alike, and was surrounded by those trying to get photos or meet loved ones each time we visited the square. At the North end of the plaza is a neon sign advertising Tío Pepe, a brand of sherry. Considering I had never heard of this before seeing the sign on the trip, I would say it is a rather effective advertisement. The plaza is flanked on the south by the House of the Post Office, a grand structure built in the 1760s that at one time served as the headquarters for the Ministry of the Interior (and Military) in the height of the fascist Francoist Spain following the Spanish Civil War. Along the Western side of the plaza is a large fountain and statue dedicated to Charles III of Spain.

Underneath the plaza is the Sol station along the Metro and Cercanías systems, providing one of the main connection points between the two systems. We used Sol many times while in Spain, both as a terminus for our trip and as a transfer between the 1,2, and 3 Metro lines as well as the C-3 Cercanías service. Getting to the station from the plaza is quite easy thanks to a large number of entrances, through the station can get quite busy and has a somewhat confusing layout for first time visitors. At this point in the day, we were getting quite tired and had finally waited long enough to check into our hostel for the night. Taking the Metro a few stops south, we checked in, dropped off our packs, and rested a bit before continuing into the evening.

Digna de un Rey

Continuing again from Sol, we walked down various streets that are older than the country we came from by a good margin to our next stop, Plaza Meyor. Yet another plaza for the trip. This one, however, had a different feel from the others thanks to its uniform design and rectangular shape, reminding me more of a Roman Piazza like Piazza Navona or Campo di Fiori. Inside the plaza were various performers, along with restaurants and a large statue of King Philip III in the center. Along the outer edges of the plaza are porticos with access to shops underneath as well as nine gates to enter or exit the area. During the holiday season, the plaza hosts one of the most important Christmas markets in Madrid.

Nearby the plaza was perhaps the stop we were looking forward to the most at this point: Mercado de San Miguel. This market hosts a variety of stalls selling authentic Spanish food of all shapes and varieties. It was here we found one of our favorite spots of the trip, a bakery where we had some of the best pastries I’ve had while traveling. We also were able to try some delicious sangria before filling up on fresh empanadas. Finally, we finished our meal with a cup of strawberries. Spain is well known for tapas, more of a style of eating than a specific type of food, where multiple platters of small items are bought and shared amongst the party to enjoy together, and this market is perfectly designed for that. In addition to the wide variety of food and beverages, there were also a few merchants inside selling fresh seafood and groceries.

Walking through the winding medieval streets of Old Madrid, we enjoyed the sun beginning to set and casting the stone buildings in an orange glow. While much of the newer portions of the city are set up into rectangular blocks, this section is devoid of uniformity, streets curving whichever way they please. Many of the older stone buildings had ornate doorways with the most beautiful wooden doors, leading to some nice photo opportunities. Throughout exploring the city, one thing I don’t think is mentioned enough is just how hilly the city is. After winding our way through streets without direction, we found ourselves standing at the base of a large bridge, carrying a major road over the street we happened to be walking along. Atop the stairs next to the bridge were the sights of the Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace of Madrid.

The Palace of Madrid is the largest in Europe, home to a vast collection of art and historical artifacts kept in the palace’s over 3,400 rooms. In front of the palace are a pair of plazas, one on each side of the gates. Inside the gates were part of the paid museum, and tourists were busy snapping photos of the ornate structure from the lawn. On the other side is Almudena Plaza, a public space filled with performers and tourists gazing at the sights around them. Standing across the plazas from the palace is Almudena Cathedral, home to the Archdiocese of Madrid and its own impressive collection of art and artifacts. Finally, at the western edge of the plaza is a belvedere overlooking Campo del Moro, the larger of the two gardens surrounding the palace, Parque de la Casa de Campo, the largest park in Madrid, and the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains that hem in the city to the North. The view from this point was worthy for a king, the sun beginning to set and the snow peaked mountains rising majestically beyond the city limits. We spent a long while just admiring the scenery stretched out seemingly endless before us; this was easily a highlight of the trip.

Atardecer

When we left the overlook and the palace it was starting to get quite late in the day. We decided to make our way down towards the Rio Manzanares, though compared to many other cities the waterfront is rather lackluster. The river is not very wide, and the area surrounding it didn’t seem to be in the best shape. That said, there were plenty of parks along the banks, providing some nice public recreation space. We eventually reached Glorieta del Marqués de Vadillo, a large plaza surrounding a rather busy roundabout, and home to a Metro station where we boarded a northbound Line 5 train to the heart of the city.

After transferring to Line 1 at Gran Vía, we left the Metro at Sol to enjoy the plaza in a different light. With the sun now set and the lights of the city turned on, the plaza took on a slightly more festive appearance. The famous Tío Pepe sign and the various shops and storefronts were lit. Although we did try to look around a bit, visiting some of the shops, we were exhausted after such a long day. Grabbing one last snack for the evening from a nearby restaurant of more empanadas, we reentered the Metro, rode the few stops south to Antón Martín station, and headed upstairs to our room for a well-deserved rest. We were only one day into our exploration of the city, with another full schedule planned for the following day.