Additional Photos by Patrick Lambour

City Highlights

• City: Boston, Massachusetts, United States

• Population (metro): 4.94 million

• Known for: Largest city in New England, Faneuil Hall & Market, Boston Commons, numerous historic sites from the American Revolution

• Distance traveled (on foot): 14.98km (9.31 mi)

• Weather during visit: Sunny, 4-10ºC (40-50ºF)

• Time in Place: 8 hours 56 minutes

One of the birthplaces of the United States of America, Boston is a vibrant city with a unique combination of cultures, designs, and street grids. As the largest city in New England, Boston acts as a great starting point for exploring surrounding cities, each steeped in their own rich history. Included in these cities, Salem is best known as the Witch City, making it a unique Halloween experience.

I spent a very full day exploring some of the top sites in each city, led by a local friend showing me some of the best spots to enjoy. And enjoy it I did; Boston has a unique, old-world flair unrivaled by other US cities and perhaps only matched on the continent by Montreal. From the moment that my flight landed to arriving back at the airport, my experience was terrific.

Arriving in Boston

Getting to Boston

Boston’s main international airport is Boston Logan International Airport (BOS). Providing service to hundreds of cities worldwide, there’s no shortage of availability to get to the city. Delta and JetBlue have hubs/operating bases in Boston, with American and United having significant operations. There are around a hundred domestic routes to Boston and service to over a dozen cities in Europe, Asia, and South America.

As the furthest east major city in the US, Boston is in a unique position to provide more transatlantic services than similarly sized airports. This may be partly attributed to the fact that Boston is closer to Iceland, a European Union member, than it is to California. Logan was the 16th busiest airport in the US in 2022 by passenger enplanements but had significantly more international traffic than other airports ahead of it on this list, such as Denver, Las Vegas, and Phoenix. BOS had more passengers going to London than Denver (the third largest airport in the US in 2022) had going to its most significant international destination, Cancun. London is also Boston’s fifth busiest destination, surpassing San Francisco, Miami, and any individual New York airport.

One of the most impressive things about Logan is how they utilize their space. The airport is smaller than other significant international airports like Chicago-O’Hare, Atlanta, and Los Angeles. However, it still manages to fit 106 gates, cargo facilities, parking hotels, and six runways into 960 hectares (2,384 acres). The only airport smaller than Logan with more operations is Newark at 820 (2,207 acres), and operations at Boston are notably better. With the small space and many gates, connecting in Boston is surprisingly easy, as long as the connection does not require a change between terminals. Another thing they manage to fit into the small space is Our Lady of the Airways, the first airport chapel in the United States.

I arrived at Logan in Terminal B, a rather lovely facility that had been last renovated about ten years prior. Inside is a decent number of shops, bright lighting, large windows overlooking the airfield, and all the usual amenities of a modern airport. Terminal B sets an excellent tone for the rest of the airport. The most significant drawback of the terminal space is that with how crowded the airfield is, the terminals can sometimes appear labyrinthine. While there are post-security walkways between most terminals, these can often be rather long and winding, meaning connections between terminals can be a hassle. This problem is further exasperated by customs being located only in Terminal E, meaning those arriving from (most) international destinations and connecting onward must clear customs and then transfer to a different terminal, increasing the time required between flights.

In addition to all of the airborne services at Logan, Boston also has rail and intercity bus connections. Amtrak primarily operates at South Station, with Northeast Corridor services (including Acela) to New York, Philadelphia, and Washington DC beginning here. South Station is also the terminus for the Lake Shore Limited long-distance service to Chicago and various MBTA commuter rail services. North Station also has MBTA commuter rail and is the southern terminus of Amtrak’s Downeaster service. Back Bay Station provides an additional connection point on the western edge of Boston, though all long-distance trains to Back Bay run through to South Station, where they terminate. One of the most annoying things about the rail stations in Boston is their lack of direct local connections. A bus service runs between North and South stations, but that is it. There isn’t even a BRT route, just a regular, non-grade-separated bus service.

The MBTA: Jack of All Trades, Master of None

Getting to the CBD from Logan is easy as the airport is already close to downtown and has multiple transportation methods available. The walk from my gate to the transit stop was less than 10 minutes at an average pace. Transit options directly at the airport include the MBTA Silver Line, several local bus lines, and the Logan Express motor coach service. There are also free shuttles to Airport Station served by the MBTA Blue Line (despite not being at the airport proper) and Logan Ferry Terminal. The Silver Line S1 to South Station and Logan Express to Back Bay are free for arrivals, making it easy for new visitors to get into the city quickly.

I planned to take the Silver Line S1 to South Station, where I would connect to the Red Line further into the business district. The walk from my gate to the transit stop ended up being shorter than my wait for the next bus, seeming to take the entire posted “15-minute headways” period. A critical note about catching buses at Logan (at least at the B terminal) is that all buses share a relatively small loading zone, so it is crucial to check that you are boarding the correct service. The Silver Line is a series of “express” bus routes that have some (but not all) features of a Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) line, such as (some) loading platforms and (some) dedicated right of way. From my experience riding the Silver Line, however, it is missing too many features to be a proper BRT line. Frequency is not high enough, and a lack of transit signal priority and dedicated lanes mean buses can and frequently do get stuck in traffic. Single-door boarding and off-vehicle fare collection means that the boarding process is slower than it could be otherwise. Even though it is more similar to a regular bus service than a BRT, the Silver Line should not be discounted as poor transit; it is just transit that still has room to grow. It provides a good service, with clean and comfortable buses that provide great routing choices. All the Silver Line buses I rode had ample seating and plenty of luggage racks, perfect for airport service (CTA, take note!). Once more, the free service into Boston makes this a compelling option for visitors to get downtown instead of opting for a private rideshare that will take a similar amount of time and cost at least $20 during an off-peak period.

Once inside the station, I purchased a CharlieCard for the day. CharlieCards are reusable, reloadable, contactless payment cards that can be loaded with either fare amounts or pass options. Unlike most similar cards, CharlieCards do not cost anything other than the fares/passes initially loaded on the card, but they do expire (after eight years). Another pain point for CharlieCards is that they are only valid on buses and the T; they cannot be used for commuter rail or ferries. Boston operates on a single-way fare model, only requiring tapping in at stations with no fare zones to keep track of. This basic model works decently well for Boston, though it disincentives shorter trips as you will not get much “bang for your buck” from paying $2.40 to go a single station down.

Tapping in for the Red Line and boarding an inbound train, we rode two stations up to Park Street. I was shocked when my train arrived, as it looked like it had just rolled out of the 1980’s. My first trip was on the Series 1800 train introduced in 1993, but that would have fooled me. The seats were well-worn (although they at least seemed comfortable), the hand grips looked tired, and the entire train felt drab and needed refreshment. Wayfinding was not great, and announcements were quite muddled. Hopefully, this will be fixed with the new CRRC trainsets being introduced, though my experience with the new cars from CRRC in Chicago was less than stellar. What was stellar, however, was surfacing from the Red Line station at Park Street and seeing plenty of historic sites, including Boston Common.

A Common Walk

Emerging from the dark underground of the T into the brilliant blue-skied day in New England autumn was only made better by doing so across the street from Boston Common. Founded in 1634, the Boston Common is the oldest city park in the United States and perhaps one of the oldest city parks in the world. This 20-hectare (50-acre) park hosts a variety of monuments, statues, and natural features, including the Frog Pond from Massachusetts’s official children’s book, Make Way for Ducklings. We briefly followed a trail leading to the Massachusetts State House, adjacent to the Common on the North side. The Robert Gould Shaw Memorial is also on the North side, a tribute to Shaw and the Black 54th Massachusetts Volunteer Infantry from the American Civil War. Finally, we came across what we sought in the Common: the Freedom Trail.

The Freedom Trail is a path that routes followers along some of the most significant sites in Boston during the American Revolution. The trail officially has 17 stops, starting in Boston Common and ending at the Bunker Hill Monument in Charlestown. The total length is about 4 km (2.5 mi). Although we only followed part of the length of the trail, we did see many of the sites along it in passing. Starting at the State House, we went towards the East, following the route through the winding streets of Downtown Boston. At King’s Chapel, we left the trail, diverging North towards the Government Center. At various times throughout the day, we would cross paths with the Freedom Trail again, but first, we went to see what many journalists and politicians alike have called “the Ugliest Building in the World.”

Boston City Hall, a part of the broader Government Center complex, is many things. It is large and imposing. It is a start departure to many of the surrounding historic buildings. And it is, in my opinion at least, magnificent. A shining example of Brutalist architectural style, the City Hall is a modernist masterpiece near the top of my list of buildings to visit for years. Formed from concrete rectangles of various sizes jutting from an upside-down pyramid, the sharp lines and irregular form contrast the other smoothly designed buildings nearby, both newer and older.

In addition to the City Hall, the Government Center has other public amenities. A large plaza in front of the City Hall can be utilized as a meeting space or event site. A large glass head house leads to the transit station of the same name on the Green and Blue lines. There is also a park and playground on the North side of the hall where keen-eyed visitors may notice the infamous “cop slide” from 2023 internet fame (it has a listing on Maps now). A few more historic spots are behind City Hall, along Constitution Street. There’s the Boston Holocaust Memorial, comprised of six glass towers, and the (Ye Olde) Union Oyster House, the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the United States, first opening in 1826. And there’s Faneuil Hall.

Faneuil Hall opened in 1742 as a gift from (slave trader) Peter Faneuil to the city of Boston. Throughout its history, it has hosted speeches from Samuel Adams, town meetings for the Big Dig, and political rallies for governors and senators. Inside the hall is the National Park Service visitor center for the Boston National Historical Park, where tourists can get free maps of the Freedom Trail and other NPS sites throughout Boston. There are also a variety of local shops inside the hall and public restrooms in the basement. The hall is worth a visit, having been ranked number four by Forbes Traveler’s 2008 “America’s 25 Most Visited Tourist Sites” and holding a unique place in American History.

Quincy Market is even better than the Faneuil Hall in some ways. A public market was created as a gift for Boston without any tax or debt to its people (the work of then-mayor Josiah Quincy). Built in a lovely Greek Revival style, the market inside is much more lively than Faneuil Hall. The market was redeveloped in the 1970s into a modern shopping and dining hall, and today, there are dozens of restaurants to grab a quick bite at. For anyone visiting Boston, a lobster roll is usually at the top of their “must-dine” list, and there are at least four restaurants inside Quincy Market to get one from. Fair warning: they are not cheap. I got a traditional lobster roll from Wicked Lobster for $25. A standard lobster roll includes lobster meat, mayonnaise, and shredded lettuce in a buttered roll. There is a decent amount of seating inside the market’s rotunda, but we opted instead to eat outside. Surrounding Quincy Market are several buskers, ranging from freestyle rappers (shoutout to Gangis Swan) to electric violinists. Inside and out, Quincy Market has something for everyone.

Tunnels and Tanks

After finishing our meal, we decided to walk towards the waterfront and pass a few other sites like the Custom House. The Custom House is a large tower that was Boston’s tallest building for nearly fifty years. Once home to Boston’s customs agents, it now contains Marriott timeshare units. We also passed the site of the Big Dig, now known as the Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway. Compared to the Central Artery, a crumbling concrete viaduct dragging a highway through the heart of Historic Boston, the Greenway is a much better fit. It was a long and contentious project, but I’m glad the Central Artery Tunnel was built. This project has led to other developments, such as the Alaskan Way Tunnel in Seattle, which I shared my thoughts on in the Seattle Trip Report.

Crossing the Greenway and reaching the waterfront, we were greeted by the New England Aquarium. As my travel partner for the day had a membership, we decided to make a quick trip inside and spent about 45 minutes looking at their exhibits. The New England Aquarium is smaller than others I’ve visited, such as the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago or the Florida Aquarium in Tampa. However, there was still plenty to see and enjoy. The exhibits are primarily placed along the north and south walls of the building, with a large, cylindrical tank in the center and penguins below. Inside the main tank is Myrtle, the Green Sea Turtle, the oldest resident in Boston’s zoos and aquariums, with an estimated age of over 90. Another unique attraction is an electric eel tank with a volt meter attached so guests can see how much electricity the eel uses to locate and kill its prey. Another hall at the aquarium includes a shark and ray touch tank with some very eager cow-nose rays and less eager epaulette sharks. One nice feature of the aquarium is the seal exhibit located outside the admission area, meaning you do not have to pay to watch them run into each other and the sides of the tank. While we could have spent more time looking at the details of each exhibit, 45 minutes was sufficient for a quick once-over before continuing to our next stop.

After the aquarium, we followed the Greenway north for about 20 minutes. We saw more of the park along the way, like the carousel and the MassDOT building. We could also see some parts of the North Side, such as the steeple for the Old North Church. We did not have the opportunity to explore the North Side on this trip, as we had a clear destination to get to and a timetable to meet, though I did get the chance to visit on a separate trip I took later in the year. Finally, we reached North Station and arrived at the perfect time to catch an MBTA Commuter train headed North.

Trip Report Inception

• City: Salem, Massachusetts, United States

• Population (municipal, 2020): 41,340

• Known for: Salem Witch Trials of 1692, significant early American seaport, home of Nathaniel Hawthorne (author of The Scarlet Letter)

• Distance traveled (on foot): (9.31 mi)

• Weather during visit: Sunny, 7-10ºC (44-50ºF)

• Time in Place: 2 hours 16 minutes

We arrived in Salem on the MBTA’s Commuter Rail service to Newburyport, along with hundreds of others. The train was completely packed. Being Halloween, everyone wanted to get to Salem and avoid the parking costs we saw nearing $50 at times. MBTA helped this by offering a special $10 round trip ticket to/from Salem from North Station for the duration of Salem Haunted Happenings, a typical round trip usually costing twice that amount, between $18 and $22, depending on the time of day. The trains that the MBTA runs are diesel-powered locomotives pulling unpowered trailer cars for passengers, including some bilevel trainsets. While comfortable, thanks to the incredibly padded seats, the cars were pretty outdated. A few features I always appreciated seeing on trains other than metros and light rails were included, such as easily accessed overhead luggage racks and tables at the change-over-point for seat direction. After about a half hour of staring out the window, enjoying the passing city to industrial to rural landscapes, we arrived at the Town of Salem (not the Village of Salem, now Danvers).

Disembarking the training and literally pushing our way up the stairs at the train station, we quickly found downtown through a combination of signs posted by the MBTA and the crowds of costumed people coming from the opposite direction. The first site we came across, Federal Street, displayed some of the small-town charms that one would be used to: an ice cream shop, restaurants, a few specialty shops, and professional businesses adorned the sidewalks. A stage was set up at the end of the street, and a beer garden-type area with a sign reading “Witch City Block Party - Open to the Public.”

We continued south to meet Essex Street, where a banner properly greeted us to Haunted Happenings, Salem’s Halloween event in the city common. Along Essex Street were more shops, much like on Federal, but the street was much narrower with seemingly older buildings and more shops with lines of people waiting to pursue their goods. The age of the area was confirmed when we reached the old city hall, looking as if it were a prop from a movie. Heading east from this point, we found the Charter Street Cemetery, home to the Salem Witch Trials Memorial.

Salem felt uneasy from the moment we stepped off the train. This could have been from the large crowd size, as large groups of people are admittedly not my favorite thing, but there was something else in the air. Between people in costumes scaring pedestrians, evangelizers out in full force, and the late autumn sun hanging low in the sky, the entire city felt like a thick air was hanging over it, waiting for something to happen. Yet nowhere else matched the feeling at the memorial. A solemn yet beautiful place, the memorial comprises a grass lawn dotted with locust trees, the type of trees thought to have been used in the hangings. The air was still, voices speaking only in hushed tones, and seemingly the only quiet place in a city otherwise overrun with festivities. Surrounding the lawn is a dirt path for visitors to walk along. Granite benches for each of the 20 victims line the stone wall along the trail. Inscribed on each bench was a name, means of execution, execution date, and words from the court transcript of each victim. Hauntingly, some phrases, such as “God knows I am innocent,” were cut off in mid-sentence, representing the lives cut short.

The next place we went to was Hawthorne Street, named after the local author Nathaniel Hawthorne, best known as the author of The Scarlet Letter. The Hawthorne Hotel from the 1920s, a psychic, and the Salem Witch Museum were on this street. We originally planned to visit the museum while in town, but they had already sold out for the day by the time we arrived. Motivation for a future visit. Located within the intersection in front of the museum is a statue of Roger Conant, the first settler of Salem in 1626. This intersection also forms one of the corners of Salem Common, home to the marketplace for Salem Haunted Happenings.

The market featured a dining area in the northwest corner with many food trucks. New England delicacies like clam chowder, lobster rolls, Italian sausages, and fried dough (what we Mid-Westerners call “elephant ears”) were all available, along with dozens of picnic tables. In the center of the common was a bandstand hosting several musicians. Around the perimeter of the lawn surrounding the bandstand were the artists’ booths, with locals peddling their wares to tourists. There was an incredible assortment of festive goods for purchase: jewelry, knit wares, candles, stickers, thrifted shirts, and records were just some of the items we saw for sale. There were also volunteers from the town handing out maps and answering visitors' questions.

After the market, we walked south to the waterfront. Salem is home to the Salem Maritime National Historic Site, the first National Historic Site in the NPS. As part of the site, there are public grounds along Derby Wharf, including a lighthouse overlooking Salem Harbor and across to Marblehead. Also at the wharf is Friendship of Salem, a replica of the 1797 vessel bearing the same name, located near where the original ship was constructed and operated. The three-masted ship was undergoing renovation while we were in Salem, and the tops of the masts were removed with much of the vessel under tarps. At the end of the waterfront is the original Custom House, another structure undergoing renovation at our visit. If this is the area you are visiting Salem for, it is better in the summer months when everything is not undergoing renovation simultaneously. This area reminded me of the small coastal towns on Lake Michigan or Washington.

With the shadows growing longer, the temperature dropping, and the anticipation of Halloween night antics soon beginning, my travel partner and I decided to head back to the train station. The train was about 20 minutes late, but this was almost expected with how long loading and unloading took due to the heavy crowds. Our journey back was on a slightly more modern (not hard to accomplish) bilevel trainset, still with the aforementioned tables and luggage racks, as well as the welcomed addition of a restroom. Throughout my trip, one consistent thing was that Boston’s trains are old, but they are at least well-equipped, highly functional, and relatively comfortable.

Back to Boston

We arrived back at a very crowded North Station. As we arrived around 6 pm, the height of the evening commute, we were going against the traffic flow for most of the walk through the station. Pushing our way through the crowd, we eventually reached the T, taking an inbound Green Line train, which was just as crowded as the station had been. The Green Line is a low-floor trolley that happens to run through tunnels in the city center, which means that the capacity is lower than that of other lines on the T. Part of this is from the smaller train sets. The other part is due to the low-floor design that takes passenger space for the wheelsets and bogies. It would be nice to see the MBTA move to longer trains (which it seems like they are doing with the new Series 10 trains in production by CAF) and to high-floor style “city trains” seen in places like St. Louis or Stuttgart (not happening anytime soon).

Taking the Green Line inbound a couple of stops to Government Center (where inbound switches to outbound), we disembarked and emerged into the (now dark) plaza we walked through earlier in the day. Despite being Halloween, it was still a workday, and with it now being around 6:30 pm, most commuters had already left for the day. Faneuil Hall was closed, though Quincy Market was still open, providing hungry patrons with dinner. Though options in the market were tempting, we already had other dinner plans.

The Black Rose is a traditional Irish pub around the corner from Quincy Market and across the street from the Custom Building. It is a relatively small restaurant, seating around 15 tables plus a short bar, but the pub atmosphere is phenomenal. There is a stage near the front entrance for live music where we could see an acoustic guitar and upright bass duo setting up. The menus for dining and drinking are both rather large, with a significant number of beers and ciders on tap. The service was excellent, and our food and drinks arrived quite quickly after ordering. I ordered the clam chowder and curry chips paired with a Downeast Cider, while my travel partner ordered the burger and the house beer, Black Rose Celtic Red. Both meals were excellent. There are a lot of Irish pubs in Boston, but the Black Rose was a great experience, and I plan on returning the next time I’m in town.

After finishing our dinner, I needed to return to the airport to catch my flight home. All I had to do was walk across the street from the Black Rose to the Aquarium T station on the Blue Line. A train pulled up within five minutes of arriving, with the station monitors showing another one eight minutes behind, respectable headways for 8 pm in the business district on a Tuesday. The Blue Line seemed more modern than the Red Line train I had taken earlier in the day, and the ride was quick, only taking two stops to get to Airport Station. One unique thing about the Blue Line is it is the only T line to use both third rail and overhead catenary for power, and it makes this switch at Airport Station. It was a quick shuttle ride from the station to the actual airport terminals.

I flew out of Terminal A and was especially impressed with the facility, considering how I already enjoyed Terminal B. Terminal A is the newest at Logan and has many design improvements from other facilities because of it. TSA was swift, even though the line looked long. The entire queue for PreCheck was packed when I arrived, but the actual wait and screening process only took around 10 minutes, an impressive feat considering the busy operation of the time I was there. Past security, there are restaurants, a pub, and a few shops for travelers. If you need last-minute gifts from Boston, I recommend New England Collections; they have a large assortment. Similar to the connection in Terminal 1 at Chicago’s O’Hare, there is a walkway connecting the two halves of Terminal A below Logan’s taxiways and apron. Unlike Terminal 1 at O’Hare, Terminal A is cut off from the rest of the airport past security. The only post-security connection is a shuttle bus operated by Delta to Terminal E for international flights, as Terminal A does not have customs facilities. Additionally, there is a pre-security walkway to Terminal B, but it is a bit of a hike (at least 15 minutes at a quick walking pace). Even with this inconvenience, I think Logan is a great airport to travel through from a passenger experience standpoint. The airport’s size makes surface congestion and delays problematic. Still, the terminal facilities are lovely and provide a modern airport on the East Coast that other cities could learn from (here’s hoping for the JFK T4 renovation).

Boston and Salem are unique gems in the Northeast, each with unique experiences that complement the other nicely. Boston is an incredible urban environment that blends modern design into historic streets, where modern glass skyscrapers and brutalist icons directly abut buildings built before America was even a country. The winding roads can confuse first-time visitors, but they enhance the city's flavor and give it a more “old-world” feel. Salem, by comparison, has the same winding historic streets but without all the skyscrapers. It revels in its history, embracing it thoroughly and building the conveniences of modern life around these roots. The fact that it is not only possible but incredibly easy to visit Boston and Salem on the same day makes this travel location a must-visit for explorers looking to get as much as possible from a short trip to New England. I look forward to visiting again soon.